Vlieseline and Vilene Interfacing - A Complete GuideUpdated 2 days ago
Vlieseline and Vilene Interfacing - A Complete Guide
Vlieseline - known as Vilene in the UK until 2016 - is the most trusted interfacing brand in the world. This guide covers everything from what interfacing is and how to choose the right one, to how to apply it correctly every time.
What is interfacing and why do you need it?
Interfacing is a second layer of material applied to the wrong side of your fabric to add structure, stability and support. It is hidden inside the finished piece and never visible from the outside.
What does it actually do?
Fabric on its own is often too soft, floppy or stretchy for certain parts of a garment or project. Interfacing solves this by bonding to the back of the fabric and giving it body, shape and durability.
- Collars and cuffs - keeps them crisp and structured
- Button bands and plackets - stops them from stretching or puckering
- Waistbands - maintains shape through wearing and washing
- Bag panels and bases - gives structure and holds the bag's shape
- Facings and necklines - stabilises edges and prevents distortion
Do you always need it?
Not always - but any part of a project that needs to hold its shape, resist stretching or take a buttonhole almost always benefits from interfacing. If in doubt, interface it.
The right interfacing is invisible in use. It should support the fabric without making it feel stiff or unnatural. Choosing the correct weight for your fabric is the key - see the weight guide below.
All Vilene interfacing is washable and dry-cleanable once fused correctly.
Iron-on or sew-in - which do you need?
This is the first decision to make. Most projects use iron-on interfacing, but there are specific situations where sew-in is the better choice.
π₯ Iron-on (fusible) interfacing
Has a heat-activated adhesive on one side. Place it adhesive-side down on the wrong side of your fabric and press with an iron to bond permanently. By far the most common choice.
- Quickest and easiest to use - no sewing required to attach it
- Bonds firmly and stays put through washing and wearing
- Works on most fabrics - cotton, linen, denim and most wovens
- Available in the widest range of weights and types
- Not suitable for fabrics that cannot take the heat needed to fuse it
𧡠Sew-in interfacing
No adhesive - it is tacked or stitched to the fabric rather than ironed on. Takes slightly longer to apply but is essential in certain situations.
- The only option for heat-sensitive fabrics such as metallics, some synthetics and fabrics that would be damaged or flattened by a hot iron
- Better for very textured or loosely woven fabrics where iron-on adhesive may not bond well
- Preferred by many tailors for structured garments - gives a softer, more natural result
- Essential for crushed or pleated fabrics that would be flattened by ironing
- Also the right choice for faux leather and vinyl where heat could damage the surface
Woven or non-woven interfacing - what is the difference?
Both types are available in iron-on and sew-in versions. The structure of the interfacing itself affects how the finished fabric behaves.
Non-woven interfacing
Made from bonded fibres rather than woven threads. Has no grain, so it can be cut in any direction. The most widely used type for everyday dressmaking and crafts.
- No grain to match - can be cut in any direction, reducing waste
- Consistent in all directions - will not stretch or pull on the bias
- The right choice for most everyday dressmaking, bag making and craft projects
- Available in light, medium and firm weights
Woven interfacing
Has a true woven structure with a grain, just like fabric. Moves and behaves more like the fabric it is applied to, making it the preferred choice for quality garment construction.
- Has a grain - must be cut on the same grain as the outer fabric to prevent pulling
- Moves more naturally with the fabric - better drape in the finished garment
- The preferred choice for garment sewing, particularly jackets, coats and tailored pieces
- Available in cotton and synthetic versions - cotton woven works well with natural fabrics
Choosing the right weight
As a rule, the weight of your interfacing should match the weight of your fabric. Too heavy and the fabric will feel stiff and unnatural. Too light and it will not provide enough support.
For lightweight fabrics
Lawn, voile, fine cotton, chiffon, lightweight linen and similar fabrics where you want subtle support without adding stiffness.
- Collar and cuff details on blouses and shirts
- Button bands on lightweight dresses
- Facings on delicate garments
- Anywhere a soft, barely-there result is needed
For medium-weight fabrics
Quilting cotton, standard linen, lightweight denim and most everyday sewing fabrics. The most widely used weight by far.
- Collars, cuffs and waistbands on most garments
- Bag panels and pockets
- Facings and necklines on dresses and jackets
- Most general dressmaking and craft projects
For heavyweight fabrics
Canvas, denim, coating fabrics and any project where you need maximum structure and rigidity - bags that hold their shape, stiff collars, structured caps.
- Bag bases, sides and structured panels
- Waistbands and belts on heavier garments
- Collars on coats and jackets
- Hat peaks, box bags and structured accessories
Our Vlieseline interfacing range
Vlieseline - formerly known as Vilene in the UK - is the leading interfacing brand. The name changed in 2016 but the products are exactly the same. We stock a carefully selected range sold by the quarter metre. All products are available in white unless stated.
π₯ Iron-on interfacing - non-woven
The most versatile everyday interfacing. No grain to match, easy to cut and quick to apply. Suitable for most fabrics and projects.
| Product | Best for | |
|---|---|---|
| Ultra Soft Light (H180/308) Lightweight, soft | Blouses, lightweight dresses, fine cotton garments and anywhere a soft, subtle result is needed | Shop β |
| Standard Medium (F220/304) Mediumweight, versatile | The most popular all-round choice. Collars, cuffs, waistbands, facings and most everyday dressmaking and craft projects | Shop β |
| Standard Firm (H250/305) Firm, stable | Waistbands on heavier garments, structured bag panels, hat brims, collars on coats and anywhere maximum stability is needed | Shop β |
| Ultra Soft Medium (G405/315) Medium, soft handle | Garments where the fabric needs to move naturally - soft tailoring, jersey-style projects and anywhere a medium level of support with a gentle handle is wanted | Shop β |
| Ultra Soft Heavy (H410) Heavy, soft handle | Heavier garments where a structured but natural result is needed - coats, jackets and substantial dressmaking pieces where the fabric should still drape well | Shop β |
π§Ά Iron-on interfacing - woven
Has a woven structure with a grain, just like fabric. Moves more naturally with the outer fabric and gives a higher-quality result on garments. Must be cut on the same grain as your fabric.
| Product | Best for | |
|---|---|---|
| Woven Medium - White (G700) Medium, cotton base | Collars, cuffs and front facings on quality garments. Particularly well suited to natural fabrics - cotton, linen and lightweight denim where a natural handle matters | Shop β |
| Woven Medium - Black (G700) Medium, cotton base | The same product in black - essential when working with dark or black fabrics where white interfacing edges may show through at seams | Shop β |
𧡠Sew-in interfacing
No adhesive - attached by stitching rather than heat. The right choice for heat-sensitive fabrics, textured surfaces, quality tailoring and faux leather or vinyl.
| Product | Best for | |
|---|---|---|
| Sew-in Light (L11/310) Lightweight, soft | Delicate, heat-sensitive or textured fabrics that cannot be ironed. Lightweight blouses, crushed fabrics and pleated styles | Shop β |
| Sew-in Medium (M12/312) Mediumweight, soft | The most widely used sew-in weight. Garment fronts, dresses, jackets and any medium-weight fabric where iron-on is not suitable | Shop β |
| Sew-in Heavy (S13/313) Heavyweight, stable | Jackets and structured garments in heavier fabrics. Where firm support is needed but ironing is not an option | Shop β |
| Extra Heavy Sew-in (S80) Extra heavyweight | Maximum structure for tailored pieces, heavy coats, bag making and structured accessories where a non-fusible option is needed | Shop β |
| Structured Sew-in (IL C 151) Light-medium, stable | Structured linings, zipped pouches, coffee sleeves, small bags and any project needing a clean, firm lining without adding significant weight | Shop β |
βοΈ Fusible fleece and specialist wadding
Not traditional interfacing - these products add loft, softness and light padding alongside structure. Ideal for bags, quilted accessories, pot holders and padded projects.
| Product | Best for | |
|---|---|---|
| Fusible Fleece - Low Loft (H630) Light, flat, iron-on | Quilted bags, pouches and accessories where a subtle padded feel is wanted without bulk. Irons on to hold position before stitching | Shop β |
| Fusible Fleece - Medium Loft (H640) Medium loft, iron-on | Bags, tote linings, oven gloves and projects where a more noticeable padded effect is wanted. More volume than H630 while still ironing on securely | Shop β |
| Thermolam Compressed Fleece Heavyweight, dense, sew-in | Pot holders, oven mitts, ironing covers and any project needing heat insulation. Also works well for quilted table mats and padded accessories. Sew-in only | Shop β |
βοΈ Specialist and craft products
Products with specific uses that go beyond standard interfacing. Each one solves a particular problem in crafting, bag making or patchwork.
| Product | Best for | |
|---|---|---|
| S530 Firm Fusible (S530) Very firm, iron-on | Fabric baskets, bag bases, structured bag sides, belts, hat brims and any project where a very stiff, rigid result is needed. Gives fabric a board-like firmness | Shop β |
| Bondaweb Double-sided fusible web | Applique, hems and joining two layers of fabric without sewing. Iron it on, peel the paper and press the fabrics together. The standard choice for no-sew applique | Shop β |
| Quilter's Grid Gridded fusible patchwork | Watercolour quilts and precise patchwork. A lightweight fusible with a printed one-inch grid that holds fabric squares in position while you sew. Stays inside the finished quilt | Shop β |
How to apply iron-on interfacing
The process is straightforward but a few details make the difference between a perfect result and bubbled or poorly bonded interfacing. Follow these steps every time.
- 1
Pre-wash your fabric first
If the finished item will be washed, pre-wash your fabric before applying interfacing. Interfacing and fabric shrink at different rates - if you skip this step the interfacing can bubble or pucker after the first wash.
- 2
Cut your interfacing slightly smaller than your fabric piece
Trim a couple of millimetres inside the fabric edges. This keeps adhesive away from the seam allowance and prevents sticky residue building up on your iron or ironing board.
- 3
Identify the adhesive side
The adhesive side is the slightly rough or dotted side - it will feel different from the smooth side when you run a finger across it. This side must face down onto the wrong side of your fabric. Getting this wrong is the most common mistake.
- 4
Place fabric wrong side up, then lay interfacing on top adhesive side down
Lay your fabric right side down on the ironing board. Place the interfacing on top with the adhesive side touching the wrong side of the fabric. Check the alignment carefully before you start pressing - once fused it is permanent.
- 5
Cover with a damp pressing cloth
Place a damp - not wet - pressing cloth over the interfacing before you apply the iron. The combination of heat and moisture activates the adhesive properly and gives a much more reliable bond than a dry iron alone. A piece of cotton muslin or an old tea towel works perfectly.
- 6
Press section by section - do not slide the iron
Lower the iron onto the interfacing and hold it in place for around 10 to 15 seconds per section before lifting and moving to the next area. Do not slide the iron across the surface - this can shift the interfacing out of position and cause bubbling. Work in overlapping sections to make sure every area is fully bonded.
- 7
Leave flat to cool completely before handling
Once pressed, leave the piece lying flat for at least 15 to 20 minutes before moving or sewing it. The adhesive needs time to cool and set fully. Handling it too soon can cause the bond to fail at the edges.
- 8
Check the bond before cutting
Try to lift a small corner of the interfacing gently. If it peels away easily, press again - extend the pressing time before increasing the iron temperature. If it is bonded firmly all over, you are ready to cut and sew.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Adhesive side facing up - the interfacing will stick to your iron instead of your fabric
- Sliding the iron - shifts the layers and causes bubbling and distortion
- Skipping the damp cloth - results in a weak bond that may fail after washing
- Handling before it cools - the bond sets as it cools, not as you press
- Skipping the pre-wash - interfacing and fabric shrink at different rates
Not sure which to choose?
Start with your project and work down to the right product.
Making a garment from a light fabric?
Blouses, summer dresses, lightweight shirts.
β Standard Light or Ultra Soft MediumGeneral dressmaking - medium fabric?
Collars, cuffs, waistbands, most everyday projects.
β Standard Medium (most popular)Quality garment - natural fabric?
Jackets, coats and tailored pieces in cotton or linen.
β Woven Medium (white or black)Fabric is heat-sensitive or textured?
Metallics, some synthetics, velvet, faux leather, vinyl, crushed or pleated fabrics.
β Sew-in (choose weight to match)Making a bag or structured accessory?
Tote bags, pouches, structured bags, box bags.
β Standard Firm or S530 for rigid structureWorking with dark or black fabric?
Any project where white interfacing edges might show through at seams.
β Woven Medium BlackMaking a pot holder, oven mitt or ironing mat?
Anything needing heat insulation.
β Thermolam Compressed FleeceApplique or no-sew hem?
Sticking fabric motifs to a project or ironing up a hem.
β BondawebWatercolour quilt or precise patchwork?
Holding tiny squares in exact position while sewing.
β Quilter's GridCommon questions about interfacing
Questions we are asked most often.
What interfacing should I use for bag making?
What is the difference between Bondaweb and interfacing?
Can I use iron-on interfacing on stretchy fabric?
Why is my interfacing bubbling after washing?
Do I need to cut interfacing on the grain?
Can I wash fabric that has been interfaced?
What is the difference between S530 and Standard Firm interfacing?
What is Thermolam used for?
Not sure which interfacing you need?
Give us a call or drop us a message - tell us what you are making and we will point you straight to the right product.