Sewing Fabric Types - Cotton, Linen, Denim, Fleece and MoreUpdated 2 days ago
Sewing Fabric Types - Cotton, Fleece, Denim, Canvas and More
From quilting cottons and anti-pill fleece to faux leather and linen slub, each fabric we stock has its own character, its own uses and its own quirks. This guide covers everything you need to know to choose the right one for your project.
The fabrics
Each fabric below includes what it is, what it is best suited to and what to bear in mind when working with it.
𧡠Cotton
The most versatile fabric in our range. Easy to sew, widely available in hundreds of prints and colourways, and a natural first choice for quilters, crafters and beginner garment sewers alike.
Best for
- Quilts and patchwork - cotton presses beautifully and holds its shape under the iron
- Tote bags, cushions, table runners and most craft projects
- Children's clothes, summer dresses and shirts
- Lining projects and backing quilts at standard width
- Beginners - it is forgiving, easy to cut and straightforward to sew
Things to know
- Pre-wash before cutting - cotton shrinks, particularly on the first wash
- Press seams as you go for the neatest finish
- Use a universal needle (size 80/12 for standard weight)
- Lighter weights can fray more readily - finish seams or use a shorter stitch length
- Most prints are available in coordinating collections - look for charm packs and jelly rolls for ready-matched sets
πΎ Calico
An unfinished, undyed plain-weave cotton with a natural, slightly rough texture. One of the most useful utility fabrics in the workroom - available in two counts and three widths.
Best for
- Making toiles and test garments before cutting into your final fabric
- Tote bags, storage baskets and utility projects where a plain sturdy fabric is needed
- Craft projects - calico takes paint, print and dye well
- Lining and stabilising bags and structured projects
- Wide width options make it practical for larger projects and quilt backings
Things to know
- 60 count is a tighter, firmer weave - more structured and durable, suits bags and utility use
- 200 count is a softer, more open weave - drapey and lightweight, suits craft work and toiles
- Natural calico has a warm cream tone; white calico has been bleached
- Pre-wash if the finished item will be washed - calico can shrink and soften noticeably
- Takes dye and paint well if you want to add colour or print yourself
π§Έ Anti-Pill Polar Fleece
A premium synthetic fabric that is wonderfully soft, warm and breathable. Our anti-pill treatment means the surface stays smooth and does not bobble with washing and wear - making it a reliable choice for everything from garments to quilt backings and crafts.
Best for
- Garments - hoodies, jackets, gilets, dressing gowns and children's clothing where warmth and softness matter
- Quilt backing - the 60-inch width means most quilts can be backed in a single piece with no joins
- Blankets, throws and pet beds where durability and easy care are important
- Soft toys, sensory items and craft projects for children and babies
- Home furnishings - cushion covers, draught excluders and cosy accessories
Things to know
- Anti-pill treatment prevents the surface from bobbling - this is what sets premium polar fleece apart from cheaper alternatives
- Does not fray - raw edges do not need finishing, making it very beginner friendly
- Non-shrink - no need to pre-wash before cutting
- Stretches slightly on the cross grain - use a ballpoint or stretch needle for the neatest seams
- Press on the reverse using a low heat only - fleece can melt or distort under a hot iron, never use steam directly on the right side
- Quick-drying and easy care - machine washable and very hardwearing
π Denim
A robust, tightly woven cotton twill recognisable by its diagonal weave structure. We stock two weights - a lightweight 4oz and a traditional 10oz - both available in four colours.
Best for
- 4oz suits shirts, dresses and lighter garments where some structure is wanted without bulk
- 10oz is the traditional weight for jeans, jackets and anything that needs to hold its shape under regular wear
- Tote bags, backpacks and accessories where a hardwearing fabric is needed
- Craft projects - denim takes embroidery and applique well and wears beautifully over time
Things to know
- Use a denim needle - size 90/14 for the 4oz and 100/16 for the 10oz; a standard needle will skip stitches or break
- Heavier weights need a strong thread and a longer stitch length
- Seam intersections on the 10oz can build up significantly - sew slowly and use a hump jumper if needed
- Pre-wash before cutting to allow for shrinkage and to soften the fabric
- Frays readily - overlock or zigzag all seams
π Canvas
A heavy-duty, tightly woven fabric with excellent structure and durability. We stock Telio organic cotton canvas in three weights, plus a range of patterned canvas fabrics at standard width. The go-to choice for bag makers.
Best for
- Tote bags, shoppers, backpacks and structured bags of all kinds
- Organisers, pouches and anything that needs to hold its shape
- Aprons, tool rolls and hardwearing utility items
- 7.7oz suits smaller bags and lighter projects; 8.8oz and 12oz for larger structured bags that need to carry weight
- Patterned canvas brings colour and print to bags and accessories without sacrificing durability
Things to know
- Use a denim or heavy-duty needle - canvas is dense and will blunt or break a standard needle quickly
- Sew slowly at seam intersections where layers of heavy fabric build up
- Canvas is stiff and does not ease well around tight curves - keep design lines clean and simple
- The heavier the weight, the more substantial the machine and needle you will need
- Organic cotton canvas is undyed and available in natural only - ideal for projects you plan to print or dye yourself
π€ Faux Leather
A PU-coated fabric with the look and feel of real leather, without the cost or ethical concerns. Hardwearing, water-resistant and striking - popular with dressmakers and bag makers alike.
Best for
- Skirts, jackets, trousers and statement garment pieces
- Bags, purses, wallets and structured accessories
- Belts, cuffs, collars and details that benefit from structure
- Projects where a water-resistant surface is an advantage
Things to know
- Do not pin in the seam allowance - pin holes are permanent; use clips or wonder tape instead
- Use a leather or microtex needle to pierce cleanly without tearing
- A Teflon or roller foot prevents the fabric from sticking to a standard presser foot
- Seams cannot easily be unpicked and resewn - stitch holes remain visible
- Cannot be ironed directly - press from the reverse using a low heat and a cloth
- Hand wash cold or spot clean only
πͺ‘ Linen Slub
A rayon-linen blend with a naturally textured, irregular surface. The characteristic slubs - thicker and thinner variations in the yarn - give this fabric an organic, artisanal quality that suits relaxed, flowing styles.
Best for
- Relaxed dresses, blouses, wide-leg trousers and skirts where drape matters
- Garments where a natural, textured finish is part of the design
- Warm-weather sewing - the rayon content gives it a cool, lightweight feel
- Flowing silhouettes that benefit from movement and drape
Things to know
- The slub texture is a feature of the fabric - the irregular surface is intentional, not a flaw
- Frays readily - finish all edges promptly and handle cut pieces carefully
- Pre-wash before cutting - the rayon content means it may shrink or change hand slightly
- Use a sharp needle (size 70/10 or 80/12) and sew at a steady pace
- Press with care on a low heat - rayon can be sensitive to high temperatures
Not sure which fabric to choose?
Start with what you are making and work from there.
𧩠Quilts and patchwork
You want something that presses well, holds its shape and comes in coordinated prints.
β Cottonπ Summer garments
A breathable, natural fabric with drape and texture for dresses, shirts and trousers.
β Linen slubπ Bags and totes
Something sturdy that holds its shape and stands up to regular use.
β Canvas, calico or denimπ§ͺ Toiles and test garments
An inexpensive plain fabric to test a pattern before cutting into your main fabric.
β Calico (200 count)π€ Statement garments
A fabric with real visual impact for jackets, skirts and accessories.
β Faux leatherπ Flowing dresses and blouses
Something with drape and movement for relaxed, fluid silhouettes.
β Linen slubπ§Έ Warm, cosy makes and quilt backings
Blankets, children's garments, pet beds or a seamless backing for a larger quilt.
β Anti-pill polar fleeceπͺ Soft toys and stuffed animals
Something soft, easy to sew and safe for children - cotton for a traditional look, fleece for extra softness.
β Cotton or fleeceπ Jeans, jackets and hardwearing garments
A durable, structured fabric that holds its shape and improves with wear and washing.
β DenimCommon questions about fabric types
Questions we are asked most often.
What is the difference between 60 count and 200 count calico?
What is slub fabric?
Can I sew faux leather on a regular sewing machine?
What needle should I use for denim and canvas?
Which fabrics are best for beginners?
Is anti-pill fleece worth paying more for?
Not sure which fabric is right for your project?
Give us a call or drop us a message - we are happy to talk through what you are making and point you in the right direction.